CLEANFAX MAGAZINE
Leather care, step 1: Identification
From Volume 20, Issue 5 - May 2005
Learn proper fiber identification before you attempt cleaning.
by: Lonnie McDonald

Many carpet cleaners are also furniture cleaners, as one naturally leads to the other.

But most cleaners think of furniture cleaning as caring for textiles that contain fibers like cotton, rayon, wool, polyester, acrylic and more.

Leather cleaning is cleaning “outside the box”, so a proper first step in leather cleaning education is learning how to identify leather types.

Leather cleaning good news
First, some good news! You already own most of the equipment and supplies you need to expand into leather cleaning.

Here’s a short start up list:

  • High efficiency particulate air (HEPA) vacuum
  • Soft, white cotton towels
  • Horse hair brushes
  • Drop cloths
  • Buckets
  • Sponges
  • Appropriate personal protective equipment

You will also need to find some properly-formulated cleaning agents, protection products and moisturizers, as these products are rarely universally used on all types of leather.

Step one: Learn your leather types
Currently, the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC)-approved Leather Cleaning Technician Course divides leather into three major categories, with each category having sub-categories.

For the sake of simplicity, we’ll focus on the three main categories and three sub-categories most often found in the field:

  • Pigment
  • Aniline
  • Nubuck
  • Aniline wax pullup
  • Aniline oil pullup
  • Nubuck wax pullup

(Waxes and oils are added to some leathers for effect)

Identification of the leather type is just as important as identification of fiber types in normal upholstery cleaning.

To be able to properly and safely clean leather, you must be able to identify what type you are cleaning.

Below is a list of leather by ID code, and how each leather type responds to the four basic identification tests: Scratch, moisture, visual and tactile.

Important: You should always check the ID tag and do all four tests. Never assume your leather type without all this information.

Check deck tag
The former American Furniture Manufacturers Association (AFMA), now the American Home Furnishings Alliance (AHFA), in a joint industry venture with the IICRC, and other entities, is currently working on a cleaning and identification deck tag that allows the consumer and the professional cleaner to more easily assess what types of leather they are maintaining, for example:

  • P = Pigment
  • A = Aniline, aniline wax pullup, aniline oil pullup
  • N = Nubuck, nubuck wax pullup

Many tags are already in use.

Scratch test
Find a swatch of leather, zipper over-run or another inconspicuous area to test the leather.

Scratch the test area lightly with your fingernail.

Aniline leathers, such as aniline and subcategories of aniline leather, including aniline wax pullups and aniline oil pullups, will scratch very easily and leave a lighter mark in the area of the scratch.

A nubuck wax pullup (subcategory of nubuck leather) will also scratch.

Moisture test
Find a swatch of leather, zipper over-run or another inconspicuous area to test the leather.

Apply a few drops of water to the test area and rub lightly. Some leathers, including aniline, aniline wax pullups, aniline oil pullups and nubucks will readily absorb the water.

It should be noted that aniline and nubuck wax and oil pullup leathers may repel water for a time, but if rubbed, will absorb in.

Some leathers may also be treated with flurochemicals and will repel moisture.

Visual test
View the entire piece of leather.

Aniline, aniline wax pullups, aniline oil pullups, and all nubucks types will have variations in hues and color.

They will also readily show scars, bites and other natural markings.

Aniline wax pullups may look like wrinkled wax paper and oil pullups will have a deep, rich look to their color.

Pigmented leathers may have a more uniform color and many times the natural markings have been removed by sanding and/or embossing and new grain pattern.

Tactile test
All leathers have what is referred to as a “hand”.

Hand is how leather feels to the touch.

Nubuck has a velvet-like texture that was created by buffing. Aniline has a soft, warm, buttery feel.

Aniline and nubuck wax pullups have a waxy touch, and oil pullups are slightly oily to the touch.

Pigmented leather feels slick, similar to vinyl.

Remember to use all the identification methods, and once you have properly identified the leather type, you may then precede to cleaning… a topic soon to be covered by CM/Cleanfax magazine.


Lonnie McDonald is an IICRC-approved leather care instructor, and the IICRC technical advisory chair for the Leather Cleaning Technician category as well as the vice chair of S300, the upholstery cleaning standard. He is a co-founder of the Low Moisture Carpet Cleaners Association (LMCCA), and owns and operates Textile Care & Consulting Group: Leather Pro! & ICC, Kansas City, MO metro-area. The company specializes in leather cleaning and leather cleaning chemicals. He is a Master Textile Cleaner, Master Restoration Technician, Master Fire & Smoke Restorer, as well as a Senior Carpet Inspector. Lonnie is the author of the “Leather Care Technician Manual”. He can be reached at leatherpro111@aol.com, (816)966-9065 or www.leatherpro.org
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